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AZRumblefish
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 9:48 am Reply with quote Back to top

Anyone here have any experience with these? I just picked up a set of 170mm Next SL's and plan on installing them pretty soon. my current set up...

175 Raceface Turbines 30T RF NW ring, XT 11 speed 11-42, clutch rear and shimano chain.

I'm going to...

170 Next, 28T Wolftooth and the same XT out back.

I have all the tools I need, I'm just worried about chainline/spacers etc. Anyone know of any good links for how to's? Any pro tips on Raceface Cinch?

Thx!
 
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TORCA
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:47 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Should be fairly simple Mike. The chainline shouldn't change unless the offset of the WT chainring is different. Is it a direct mount chainring or is it a 94/104 BCD chainring?

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thudd
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 10:29 pm Reply with quote Back to top

They should come with the spacers (if needed) to set the chainring close to the 6th or 7th cog. (if you need to, take a straight edge off the chainring to check the line) I think you'll like the difference between the 175 to 170s
 
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AZRumblefish
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 9:49 am Reply with quote Back to top

The Raceface NW has a 51mm chainline and the WT is 49mm.....It is the direct mount version. I did get the old ones off and started the BB, but I didn't have enough time to finish up. RF wants a BB width of 98.1 mm + or -, its 98mm when the cups are seated but not torqued down yet. I was wondering what decrease in width I'll see after they get torqued down. i used one spacer on each side. Tomorrow, I'll get after the crank install.

I'm hoping the 170's make a difference. I'm worried the 28T is going to be too small, but then again, I'm not the greatest climber.

Thanks!
 
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suvlako
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2016 4:33 pm Reply with quote Back to top

There's obviously a lot of variables but i don't think the bb is as important as the spindle length. Having said that, I have not worked with the RF cranks yet. In addition, with a lot of companies going to "standards", there shouldn't be that much difference. I just want from a 30t to a 28t with 0mm offset from a 94 bcd. It posed a problem with the chain guide but didn't affect the chainline so much that it didn't work.

The 28t will help the climbs and if you're on a bigger wheel, you should find yourself "spun out".

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AZRumblefish
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 6:54 am Reply with quote Back to top

Yup. I think as long as I'm 97-99mm it should be good. RF has color coded, numbered steps, I'm good when I have clear detailed instructions. Otherwise I'm like that commercial with the little kids pounding the square peg in the round hole......"It'll fit....."

As far as the 28t, I figured it will keep me in the middle of the cassette more and give me a bailout gear on long climbs.
 
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thudd
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 12:17 pm Reply with quote Back to top

if you're looking at the 51mm chainline, you're looking at 178mm Q factor with the turbine and 168mm with the next. That'd be the only major factor I'd worry about... probably not an issue though
 
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AZRumblefish
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 6:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

So I had to hang my head and seek professional help......

Everything looks great. Chainline is 49mm. The drive side crank barely clears the chainstay, but that seems to be fine so far. When you back pedal in the 42T, it drops down 1-3 cogs. Worse that before, which was one of the problems I wanted to address. The drivetrain sounds like crap on the stand, but fine while riding. It shouldn't be an issue, but I do sometimes back pedal on steeper stuff occassionally. People say, don't back pedal then, but I like stuff to work. Here's my thoughts....

1. Gonna try a SRAM chain. Some folks have reported success by doing this
2. Check to see if the chain is too long.

Any other ideas?

thx.
 
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Tallboy2
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 7:36 am Reply with quote Back to top

I basically have the same setup, except 175 and a 36T Raceface ring. I have been riding with it for about 6 months. I love it. I have the same "issues" you mentioned, but it rides great. The back pedal drop (in 42) happens after about a half back rotation, but it jumps right back when you start to pedal again (but I rarely ever back pedal in 42). I don't think you will experience any problems when riding. If you find a solution please post, it would be nice if it ran smother when I'm working on it in the stand.
 
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AZRumblefish
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 5:08 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I just think its strange that with a better chainline and narrower Q factor cranks, that it would be better. Maybe I should give it a better chance. I'm thinking of just going XT cranks and ring and making it an all shimano affair.
 
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AZRumblefish
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 12:12 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I decided to give it a more fair chance....From everything I've researched, many of the 1x11's have these issues....noise, chain coming off the big cog. For whatever reason, it is way better off the stand. Gonna put some miles on and see what happens.
 
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